‘The Paris of Appalachia’ offers a warm welcome in Pennsylvania
By Corinne Whiting, CNN
Pittsburgh (CNN) — Pittsburghers seem to enjoy that their hilly, welcoming city, which sits at the junction of three rivers in Southwestern Pennsylvania, surprises most who arrive.
It seems like a badge of honor for those here to dispel long-gone stereotypes “the Steel City” held, its industrial prowess once evidenced by smoky, smoggy skies. Today, their town still glides just beneath the radar for some, but those in the know feel as if they’ve struck gold.
Many who visit are wowed to find so much green (163 parks, from sprawling regional spaces to neighborhood parklets) and wondrous Gilded Age architecture.
Recently, the second most populous city in the state has been in the headlines for another reason. Because Pennsylvania proves a key prize in the upcoming election, politicians on both tickets have passed through while trying to drum up support.
Our advice: Show up open and ready to chat. Most locals exude an East Coast directness melded with Midwestern warmth, and they’ll gladly share favorite finds with visitors willing to pull up a seat.
A fierce sense of Pittsburgh pride extends far beyond Steelers season, and conversations may just introduce you to some quirky “Pittsburghese.”
You can learn more about the regional dialect and its Scots-Irish immigrant roots at the Strip District’s Heinz History Center. Within the six-floor center, the Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood exhibition and the Western Pennsylvania Sports Museum pay homage to other hometown heroes, too.
Pittsburgh’s claims to fame
This city dazzles with stats, many of which get shared on narrated sightseeing cruises aboard the Gateway Clipper. Pittsburgh has an impressive number of bridges (446, including the three yellow Sister Bridges), plus 90 distinctive neighborhoods tied to the diverse cultural groups that call this place home.
In transforming Hazelwood, a former enclave for Scottish settlers, you can savor elevated pub fare at The Woods House in one of Pittsburgh’s oldest remaining structures, which dates back to 1792. In Bloomfield, Little Italy Days enthusiastically celebrates that neighborhood’s heritage each summer.
You can still ride the two existing inclines (or funiculars), first operated in the 1870s. They go to the steep top of Mount Washington, offering a throwback experience with payoff panoramic views of the twinkling waterways and cityscape below.
Despite proud ties to the past, Pittsburgh has evolved from an early-20th-century industrial superpower into an inviting destination with continuously unfolding tech, art and food scenes.
The city is a modern-day world leader in robotics and AI, and home to Duolingo’s HQ (with an on-site taqueria inside). Two years ago, The Andy Warhol Museum announced a 10-year plan to transform six blocks of its North Shore neighborhood into a cultural mecca called The Pop District.
And in 2025, the Pittsburgh International Airport — the first in the world completely powered by an independent microgrid — will unveil its $1.4 billion terminal modernization. In 2026, Pittsburgh will host the NFL draft.
This is a city on the move.
Pittsburgh occasionally gets called “The Paris of Appalachia,” mainly thanks to a 2009 Bryan O’Neill book by that title that paints a realistic portrait of the sometimes bumpy evolution of this outpost in the western foothills of the Appalachian mountains.
Once the world’s largest producer of steel, Pittsburgh has held onto some of its charming grit, thanks to a hardy people deeply connected to their working-class roots.
Steel left a lasting footprint on certain facets of the city, including art. In 1895, Scottish philanthropist and steel industry titan Andrew Carnegie founded the Carnegie Institute, now the four esteemed Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh.
Today the city’s modern vibe and innovative spirit shine in spaces from enchanting theater venues to charismatic dining rooms.
Regional pride translates to delicious dishes
Can’t-miss eateries such as Scratch & Co., on Pittsburgh’s Northside in Troy Hill, embody this destination’s focus on collaboration and regional sourcing.
Many locals, including Scratch & Co. owner and Pittsburgh native Don Mahaney, have boomeranged back after time away. He calls Scratch a true neighborhood restaurant, where the staff carries that sense of place into each shift.
“Like all Pittsburghers, we are fiercely loyal to the region, and uncommonly welcoming to all,” he says.
Scratch has always placed focus on their local food footprint. These days, for delectable dishes ranging from pork chops and meatloaf to vegetarian delights, chefs David Bigbee and Josh Pruss source upwards of 90% of their goods from Three Rivers Grown, Be.Wild.Er farm, Footprints Farm and Weiss Provisions.
“We seat 80 guests only,” Mahaney says of his cozy space showcasing works by local artists. “We cannot change the world. But we can make a difference, even a significant one, for our staff, and guests, and growing partners.”
Jackworth Ginger Beer owner Jackworth Smith is another Pittsburgh native who returned home to launch a dream — in his case, Pennsylvania’s first ginger beer brewery.
“Between its geography, history and spirit, there really is no city like Pittsburgh,” he says. “There is a real sense of belonging and familiarity that calls people back.”
The industrial-hip space in Larimer showcases ginger beer offerings (non-alcoholic options, too) among reclaimed treasures like a holy water fountain and ornate windows from a gutted mansion.
Other culinary standouts include vegan superstar Apteka. It’s tucked between the Bloomfield and Lawrenceville neighborhoods, where Central and Eastern European-inspired dishes have created waves for a while.
Fet-Fisk is a newer sensation on the scene — its hygge-inducing ambiance featuring rich wood paneling and soothing dim lights. Although many of its Nordic seafood dishes are inspired by familial, sentimental memories from chef and owner Nik Forsberg’s youth (his father is Swedish), the venue is also devoted to Appalachian agriculture.
“We try to source as much produce and protein as possible from regional sources,” says Forsberg, “because it aligns with our values, the caliber of product is infinitely better than anything farther away, and it allows our menus to reflect the seasonal changes of our region.”
Delving deeper into local culture
With eateries such as Morcilla and The Vandal part of the happening lineup in Lawrenceville, this is one place to witness the city’s expansion beyond “standard sportstown food.”
That’s something Chef Roger Li, who’s since opened several Asian restaurants in the neighborhood, found in 2004 after landing in Pittsburgh “by accident” from Philadelphia.
At the time, not many Asian eateries existed beyond “mom-and-pop American-Chinese restaurants,” so Li jokes his venues simply represent fare he craved. He quickly realized this city’s potential for growth.
Li’s offerings include Japanese-style pub Umami Izakaya; Nanban for ramen, Asian-style fried chicken and empanadas; The Parlor Dim Sum for Cantonese BBQ and wok-fried dishes; and Allegheny Wine Mixer for a cozy nightcap or killer charcuterie spread. Soon he’ll open an omakase-style, chef’s-choice venue called Yume.
Post-meal Lawrenceville draws include cocktails savored amongst the greenery of Bar Botanico and rocking shows at Thunderbird Café & Music Hall.
Alluring accommodations in Pittsburgh range from The Oaklander Hotel, located in the city’s university core and directly next to the soaring, 535-foot-tall Cathedral of Learning, to downtown’s grand, historic Omni William Penn Hotel.
The next block over, trendy Kimpton Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh offers pops of vibrant whimsy and dog-friendly amenities in a beautiful Beaux Arts-style building constructed in 1903.
The nearby Union Trust Building is well worth a visit, especially for gazing up at the Tiffany-inspired stained glass dome inside the 11-story atrium.
Within this storied space, brunch can be enjoyed at The Speckled Egg.
At dinnertime, Ritual House is a celebratory spot ideal for photo ops and desserts served with festive flair, like their modern take on a treasured Pennsylvania classic — strawberry pretzel salad — a layered creation of salty pretzel crust, cream cheese and strawberry Jell-O topping. But first, the menu features starters such as burrata, bruleed oranges and yellowtail hamachi followed by mains including a sensational ossobuco, sea bass and chimichurri-adorned prime rib.
Alfresco explorations
About 70 miles (110 kilometers) from downtown Pittsburgh, Frank Lloyd Wright’s architectural masterpiece Fallingwater is nestled into the Laurel Highlands, a region beloved for its rugged natural beauty.
Within city limits, 644-acre Frick Park bustles with urban explorers frequenting its wooded biking and hiking trails in every season. On the park’s eastern border, Regent Square’s 3 Rivers Outdoor Co. (3ROC) stocks adventure gear and regularly hosts community events from bonfires to full moon hikes, offering the easy welcome most Pittsburghers extend without thought.
After any 3ROC gathering, options vary. Folks can banter with neighbors at next door’s laid-back, D’s brews and hot dogs joint — or for something special, hop in the car toward Shadyside’s Lilith to feast one’s palate and eyes on elegant, colorful spreads by chefs Dianne DeStefano and Jamilka Borges, inspired by their Sicilian and Puerto Rican heritages.
And, voila, the endearing juxtapositions — casual and trendy, old-school and cutting-edge — that this resilient, riverside town continues to embrace. The best news? All options get served with a generous helping of warmth.
Landing in Pittsburgh wasn’t on freelancer Corinne Whiting’s radar, but she’s very happy living in the city — and embracing the unexpected adventure of discovering Pittsburgh’s ever-unfolding layers.
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