His restaurant put edible ants on the menu. Now he could face one year in prison
By Gawon Bae, Yoonjung Seo, Chris Lau, CNN
Seoul, South Korea (CNN) — The owner of a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in South Korea is facing hefty fines and up to a year’s jail time for garnishing a sherbet dessert with ants.
The problem isn’t that insects appeared on the menu.
Rather, the issue is South Korea’s nuanced food laws, which regulate which insects can go on diners’ plates.
As is typical in South Korea, the prosecutors’ office did not name the restaurant or its owner. They told CNN that the eatery in question has been serving dried ants brought in from the US and Thailand since 2021.
They alleged that the restaurant had served about 49,000 ants in 12,200 sherbet dishes.
While it is the chef who prepared the dish and put it on the menu, prosecutors have indicted the owner of the restaurant for violating the Food Sanitation Act. It is not immediately clear if the chef is the owner of the restaurant.
According to the government, it wasn’t merely the presence of ants in food that was an issue. The Ministry of Food and Drug Safety said investigators “found the ants from this restaurant contained heavy metal levels up to 55 times the maximum limit allowed for other edible insects.”
Prosecutors have asked a court to impose a 20 million won ($13,580) fine on the restaurant, citing a profit of 120 million won ($81,470) over the past four years.
The verdict is scheduled to be announced in September.
Advocates in South Korea and elsewhere have increasingly argued that insects are just as reliable a source of protein as other animal products. Given how easily they are raised and harvested with fewer resources than are needed for more traditional livestock, insects present an effective way to combat climate change.
South Korean cuisine doesn’t frown on insects. Beondegi, for example, is a traditional steamed silkworm pupae snack served by street vendors in paper cups.
But under the country’s Food Sanitation Act, only 10 insect species, including grasshoppers and silkworms, are permitted for human consumption. Serving any other insect – like ants – requires special approval from authorities.
Lawyers representing the restaurant said its chef used ants to add acidity to the dish, without realizing that the recipe he once used in the US and Europe is legally banned in South Korea, local media reported.
They also said the restaurant only served ants to about 60% of the customers and that the ants were clearly identified on the menu as part of the dish.
According to a 2013 report by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, at least two billion people worldwide already ate bugs every day.
The most commonly eaten insect groups globally are ants, beetles, bees, caterpillars, cicadas, crickets, dragonflies, flies, grasshoppers, leaf bugs, locusts, scale insects, termites and wasps, according to the FAO.
The trend has gained traction in Europe and the United States in recent years: a report by Global Market Insights previously projected the US edible insect market would grow to nearly $80 million by 2024, with Europe also logging growth.
Among those avidly promoting edible insects in the West is New York City-based chef Joseph Yoon, executive director of Brooklyn Bugs, an organization that wants to change diners’ perceptions of creepy crawlies. Yoon has made tarantula tempura and caramel popcorn with grasshoppers in his work as a guest chef and advocate.
In Copenhagen, Alchemist, a two-Michelin-starred establishment currently ranked No. 5 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, teamed up with scientists to ferment dairy products with the help of both live and frozen ants. It resulted in a popular “ant-wich,” ice cream sandwiched between ant-shaped cookies with an ant-infused gel.
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